Naagan- Progressive Indigenous Cuisine
- Alison Golding
- Aug 14, 2021
- 2 min read
Updated: 5 days ago
I’ve had the privilege of dining at Naagan by Chef Zach Keeshig three times now, each visit a remarkable chapter in the restaurant’s ongoing story. From its humble beginnings at the Riverstone Retreat in Durham in 2021, to its time at the Owen Sound Farmers’ Market, and now in its permanent home at 279 Tenth St E in Owen Sound, I’ve witnessed firsthand how Naagan has grown into the culinary gem it is today. Most recently, it earned a well-deserved spot as #9 on Canada’s Best New Restaurants of 2025 by Canada’s Best 100.
The premise of this unique experience, is to offer a creative 12 course tasting menu using locally sourced, grown, and foraged food that is inspired by Chef Zach’s First Nation heritage and the bounty provided by the land. Naagan's upscale creative tasting menus are all locally sourced, foraged and grown, proudly serving the best seasonal foods that nature has to offer. Absolutely everything is locally sourced, right down to the tableware made by Ontario artisans.
One standout in each of my visits has been Zach’s incredible sauces. Rich, layered, and often taking several days to prepare, these sauces are a testament to his artistry and commitment to deep flavour. Each course is not only a visual and sensory delight, but a reflection of time, care, and cultural reverence.
Another unique feature of the experience is the non-alcoholic foraged and fermented drink pairings, thoughtfully created to complement the food. These inventive beverages, made in-house, are a beautiful extension of the menu, adding depth, balance, and a deeper sense of place with every sip.
To me, the best dining experiences include the elements that are the cornerstone of what Naagan is about including, connection to the land, to our food and to each other. These components are what takes Naagan beyond an exceptional meal and makes it an experience to remember.
When we think of food, our memories are often rooted in celebrations and components of culture. I would be remiss not to mention the impacts of colonialism on Indiginous populations in Canada, which includes the separation of people from their history and culture, including traditional foods and food preparation methods. The concept of moving beyond the exploitation of food-related resources, instead, celebrating the bounty of what nature supplies, while anchoring the food to a historical context and reclaiming Indigenous history through teaching is one of the things makes Naagan so unique and special.
Comments